Tip 21 REMOVING ARCHWAY Gather your supplies 90 x 45mm timber, to pack out beam (if required) 10mm plasterboard sheets (quantity to suit) Metal external corner angles Base coat setting compound Plaster finishing compound You’ll also need Hammer; old chisel; wallboard saw; pinch bar; measuring tape; pencil; utility knife; stud adhesive; plasterboard nails; staple gun; spirit level; plasterer’s trowel; internal corner tool; paper jointing tape; dust mask; 150 grit sandpaper; sealer undercoat; paint roller and tray Here’s how STEP 1 To remove faux bricks, start by using hammer and old chisel to chip bricks off wall. They may come off easily, leaving you with only minor repairs to make to the wall. STEP 2 If removing bricks causes major damage to wall, it’s easier to remove the old plaster wall lining along with bricks, and install new plasterboard on the walls. Use wallboard saw to cut plaster where it meets the cornice and adjacent walls. Chip off old bricks at various points so you can cut plaster into manageable pieces. Use pinch bar to pry old plaster off the walls and remove. Cafe interior design ideas Repeat for other side of arch if required. Remove skirting boards and retain so they can be reinstalled later. STEP 3 Demolish timber frame of arch until you get back to the vertical timber studs and the horizontal beam over the opening. Remove any nails still in the timber frame. STEP 4 If the beam isn’t the same thickness as the wall studs, you may need to add timber to the beam so they are both the same. Cut timber to match the difference in thicknesses between wall studs and beam, and screw to top and bottom of the beam. STEP 5 Determine position of plasterboard sections so joins are kept to a minimum. Measure wall dimensions and transfer to plasterboard sheet. To cut sheet, score along your cutting line with utility knife. Bend sheet until it snaps and run knife along other side of board to separate the pieces. STEP 6 Mark position of wall studs on the floor and cornice so you can locate them when the plasterboard is in place. Apply dabs of stud adhesive on wall studs every 200mm or so. STEP 7 Press plasterboard onto wall. Nail through plasterboard into wall studs, ensuring nails don’t coincide with adhesive. Drive nail to just below paper face of sheet without breaking it. STEP 8 Cut external corner angles to length, and staple these to plasterboard. Use a spirit level to make plumb on sides of the opening and level across the top. Also make sure the plane formed by the 2 angles on the wall thickness is square to main part of the wall, otherwise the wall will appear to be twisted when plasterboard is set. STEP 9 Mix base coat setting compound. Using trowel, apply to external corner angles. Feather edge away from corner. Also fill narrow wall between corner angles. Leave to set. STEP 10 To set internal corners, spread setting compound along both sides of the corner. Using internal corner tool, press folded paper jointing tape into setting compound so it bridges the corner. Make sure there are no air bubbles under tape. Follow with a thin skim-coat to just cover the tape and feather the edges to the plasterboard. Leave to set. STEP 11 Where plasterboard sections join, repeat Step 10, spreading setting compound along both sides of join. STEP 12 Apply finishing compound to all joins and corners in successively wider layers, allowing to dry between coats. To properly blend old and new, you may end up with compound 600mm-wide on joins and 300mm from each side of corners. Let dry. STEP 13 Wearing dust mask, sand. Check for smoothness by running your hand along join. Apply further finishing compound if required. Remove dust; paint with sealer undercoat; finish with top coats. STEP 14 Replace skirting boards over new plaster walls, cutting as required to suit new wall dimensions.
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