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Time need not necessarily be spent afloat. At Aghios Euphemia, on the south-east coast of Cephalonia, one can take a taxi to visit the famous caves of Dhrogarati and Melissani, where an underground lagoon contains salt water, which has streamed its way some seventeen miles through the ground. Ithaca, too, is rich in treasures. You can anchor in the bay at Port Polis, where Odysseus supposedly sheltered his boat, and climb up to the town of Stavros, visit the cave of the Nymphs, and then walk south to the picturesque east-coast fishing port ofVathi.

The approach to Fiskardo on our final day’s free sailing tested the sea legs of many crews with yachts being dwarfed by twelve-foot waves as another October storm began to brew on the horizon. The following day, a dismasted yacht was the only evidence of the storm as we headed out of harbour for the start of the flotilla regatta to Sivota – the sheltered winter home of all Greek-based Sunsail yachts Travel information General information about Paxos and the islands of the South Ionian from the Greek National Tourist Office, 195 Regent Street, London Wl (telephone: 01-734 5997).

Sunsail, which incorporates Island Sailing, Yachting Cruising Association and Emsworth Sailing School, offers a wide selection of flotilla sailing holidays in the Mediterranean, Caribbean and Thailand, with seven-day dinghy cruiser courses for complete novices at Emsworth first. The Paxos and South Ionian flotilla on a six-berth thirty-foot Bennettau yacht, costs from about £420 per person, based on six people in low season, to about £755 per person, based on four people in high season. For further details, contact Sunsail, The Port House, Port Solent, Portsmouth, Hampshire P06 4TH (telephone: 0705-210345). An empire’s lesser-known comers Latest home interior designs Carol Wright enjoys the unspoilt Mogul heritage of Pakistan THE BORDER which divides India and Pakistan also divides the great monuments of the Mogul empire.

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